Monday, April 23, 2012

Japan: An Education

To be honest there are certain things about traveling in Japan that begin to wear on you.  Most result from the fact that Japanese society is extremely homogenous and you, as a foreigner, stick out.  There's no avoiding it.  A less obvious example is the absolute lack of free wifi in Japan. I know this sounds petty and ridiculous and snobbish but in a country as technologically advanced as Japan you'd expect the service (I mean, there was free wifi everywhere in rural Patagonia!) and it just doesn't exist.


There are other things about Japan, however, that leave a different impression.  They leave you in awe of the country and its culture and make you think:  "I could live here." Mostly they're about the people.


A private concert in Osaka.



It doesn't take long to appreciate the Japanese peoples' humility, moderation, kindness.  You arrive at the airport and notice unexpected bows and apologies are flying in your direction for no apparent reason.  Sumimasen! Sumimasen!  You leave a restaurant and every employee shouts "Thank you very much."  Arigatou gozaimasu!  Employees literally run to make sure you receive the fastest service possible.  People are friendly, approachable.  You make friends quickly.


Yoshihiko let us get drunk in his bar and played guitar with us until the early-morning hours. 

Other "Japanese" friends.


But that unique Japanese humility and respect often expresses itself in more subtle ways.  Small shops in Kyoto attempt to sell items by placing them in boxes outside their stores (which themselves are never open).  Each item is labeled with a price and, if you want one, you just take it and leave the money in a box around the side of the building. There's no need for bars, security cameras, or locks; no one would ever take something without paying for it.


Another example: vending machines sell small and medium sized drinks for the same price (there's no large size, seemingly because such excess consumption would be un-Japanese).  I asked someone why everyone doesn't select the larger of the two sizes; you get more for the same price!  His response:  "But do you actually want more, or are you getting it because it is more." Isn't more always better?  Not in Japan.   


And thus I leave Japan knowing that it isn't perfect; indeed I'm excited to head out on my next big adventure.  I'm hopeful, however, that I can take some of that unique Japanese charm with me when I go.