Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Istanbul: A Rooftop Paradise

While the standard guidebook dedicates ample space to Istanbul's rich history and classic sights, it leaves much of the city uncovered -- meaning, that, when it comes to Istanbul's undiscovered local eateries that lay off the beaten path or beautiful little mosques in the Old City, there's plenty of room for the independent tourist to explore.


My own exploration drove me upwards and I've been walking around with my neck cranked to sky for the better part of my trip.  After a couple strolls down Istanbul's tightly packed, townhouse-lined streets, I began to think that the best views of the city exist not at ground level but from some of the scarce rooftop patios scattered throughout Beyoglu and the Old City -- the two main tourist areas.


I've since sampled many and come up with my Best-of-the-Best list.


Old and New.



I consider the following essential for a good rooftop bar/patio:  First, the view.  It needs to be spectacular.  And for view, the clear winner is Mikla (see opening photo) -- a small rooftop bar that sits atop the classy Marmara Pera hotel.  The bar is located just off Istiklal Cab. and offers 360 views from the highest point south of Taksim Square.  I can't comment on the scene, as both the bar and restaurant were closed when I arrived and had to sneak in.  (If I had to guess, I'd say both are probably a little stuffy and overpriced, though I hear the food is good.)  


Sunset from the bar.



Second, the ability to drink -- specially, a good, cold beer on a hot day.  I learned the hard way that not all of Istanbul's rooftop patios serve alcohol, owing to the religious beliefs of their owners.  


I recommend avoiding these spots and heading instead to the bar at Anemon Galata -- a hotel sitting on the courtyard opposite Galata Tower.  The view rivals that offered by the tower itself and you don't have to wait in line or pay admission.  The only problem:  Tables are scarce!  


View from the restaurant (through glass, unfortunately).



Nearby Galata Tower.



(Bonus Tip:  The basement of Anemon Galata holds a very, very good wine and cheese bar, where you can sample traditional Turkish cheese paired with drinks recommended by the staff.)


Third, and finally, a good rooftop bar has reliable wifi and wait staff who leave you alone and don't try to rush you out the door.  My preference here is based primarily on my habit of using these rooftops as my base for Skype chats with Ellen and folks back home.  And it's just plain nice to kick back, relax, and not feel like your hindering business or at an amusement park ride where the line needs to keep moving.  


My favourite "maxin' and relaxin'" spot:  The seafood restaurant at the top of the Seven Hills Hotel in the Old City.  Go during the day, order a coffee, and enjoy the area's best up-high views of Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque for as long as you like.  It also doesn't hurt that the clear Mediterranean waters of the Sea of Marmara are about 100 meters away.


Aya Sofya.

  
Blue Mosque from the shadows.