Friday, May 11, 2012

Istanbul: My Number One Attraction

OK, what I'm about to tell you about isn't my number one -- a distinction goes to Aya Sofya a/k/a the Church of the Holy Wisdom.  But everyone knows how great Aya Sofya is and it's not exactly off the beaten path. So I thought I'd write about something else: Chora Church (in Turkish, Kariye Muzesi, or the Church of the Holy Savior).  In my opinion a must for every Istanbul itinerary. 




The church sits well outside the main tourist areas, right up against the old city walls.  But you should view the trek as a good thing, not bad.  First, you'll get to barter with sketchy taxi drivers -- an experience that will leave you both satisfied with your negotiation skills and knowing that the only reason the driver agreed to your final price is because he is still ripping you off.  


And, second, the wall itself is an attraction; if you're up for a little climb, it provides one of the best views of the city.  (Note that getting down can be a little scary.  You'll definitely have the following conversation with yourself before down climbing the stairs:  "If I jump will I get hurt? . . . Yes, that would definitely hurt.")


View from the top.


The Church building itself is nothing spectacular, but what's inside is the reason you came.  There you'll find some of the best preserved mosaics and frescos in all of Istanbul.  These are, simply put, stunning.  And I still feel that way even though I have no idea what they mean.  Imagine how great the experience would be if you splurged for the $5 audio guide! 


Here are a few of the mosaics which adorn the church's walls:







 And here are a few of the mosaics:





Finally, there are a few added bonuses that come along with a visit to the Chora Church, but, unfortunately, you'll need to walk home to see them instead subjecting yourself to taxicab robbery.  


You'll first come upon Fatih Mosque, and I highly recommend doing so during one of the prayer calls.  The things you'll see -- groups of women clad in burka, praying separately among themselves; men fighting for a chance to get up close to the imam; etc. -- will, if nothing else, leave you thinking.  There were many things here that I wanted to photograph but choose not to both out of respect and a fear of reprisal.  


Second, you'll get up close and personal with Istanbul's Valen's Aqueduct -- one of the city's many tributes to Roman engineering.


And, finally, you'll cross the Sultanahmet Mosque.  Not quite as grand as the Blue Mosque, but a much more authentic experience --that is, minus the people laying on their backs taking pictures of the ceiling.