Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Patagonia: The Perito Moreno Glacier

The Perito Moreno glacier sits 80 kilometers away from El Calafate and is the Argentine town's main draw. If you're in the area it's a must-see attraction.
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Too big!
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Here's all you need to know to plan your visit:
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1.  Nearly everyone gets to the glacier via tour bus.  Tickets can be booked easily in town or through your hostel/hotel and cost around $100-$200 Argentine pesos.  It seems as though there's little difference between tours so I'd opt for the cheapest.  An alternative option is the public bus though I'm not sure how frequently it runs.
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2.  Tour buses generally pick you up at your hostel/hotel and leave town twice daily:  the morning (approx. 7:30 a.m.); and early afternoon (approx. 1:00 p.m.).  You can expect the visit to last around eight hours door to door -- so if you leave on the morning bus you'll be back in Calafate by around 4:00 p.m.
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3.  There is a mandatory $100 peso park entrance fee.
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4.  Tour companies offer a "boat option," which costs an additional $70 pesos and gets you up close and personal with the glacier.  In my opinion its worth the extra cost, though I met someone who came to Calafate only to see the glacier, declined taking the boat, and didn't hate herself afterward.  
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5.  Without question the best spot for viewing the glacier while on the boat is at the front.  Just remember that if you do this no one will tell you that if you stand at the front you will get very wet.  (See picture below).
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6.  You have only one option for food and water once you've arrived at the glacier:  the overpriced cafeteria.
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7.  Viewing the glacier is not a solitary experience and you should expect to see a lot of people.  Practice elbowing for picture spots.  You can get away from the crowds if you venture off on one of the many hiking trails around the main visitor center.
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And now for some pictures:
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The approach.  This will be your first sight of the glacier.

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The boat.
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Wet pants.
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Views from the water.

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Views from the visitor center.
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The masses.

The glacier emptying into Lago Argentina.
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Lago Argentina.
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And, finally, a couple fun facts to conclude:  
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1.  The visible front wall of the glacier is approximately 100 feet high (or so I was told).  Another 700 feet or so exists below the surface of the water.  And . . . the ice at the front is 300 years old.  Crazy!  
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2.  They like to say that the Moreno glacier is one of the few in the world that is actually moving forward.  Although technically true, it's a pretty misleading statement as the total mass of the Patagonian Icefield is shrinking -- and rapidly so!