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| Classic Mendoza eating. |
Things I liked about Mendoza:
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1. Cheap food and very cheap wine. I'm pretty sure that unless you're there to climb mountains you're there to enjoy the best of Mendoza's wineries -- and they don't disappoint. We did most of our sampling at restaurants but there are several wine tasting spots in town that cater to both novices and connoisseurs. I also know two people who did a winery bike tour/lunch and came back into town very much thinking it was time well spent.
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2. Mendoza's walkable downtown core. Cafes, restaurants, and cheap bars line pedestrian-only streets and during busy times things are a buzz with people. A few tips for exploring:
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a. Don't get run over crossing the street. Jaywalkers are viewed similar to wandering goalies and considered fair game by drivers.
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| My friend Paul entering a main thoroughfare. Those in the background are asking for trouble. |
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b. Things are dead during siesta.
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c. Things are very much alive after midnight. It was often the case that we'd return from dinner around 2:00 a.m. and find the streets packed with people (including families with young children). You also should expect to start dinner late -- which I'm told goes for any place in Argentina -- unless you prefer dining alone.
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| This light display adorns Plaza Independencia, which sits at the heart of downtown Mendoza. We spent hours trying to figure out what it depicts and I still have no idea. Photo courtesy of Paul Mezzina. |
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d. English is spoken, though not particularly well. I found it best to try what little Spanish I know, even if it was laced with English words and wild gesturing.
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e. Venture a few roads east of the Plaza (try Av San Martin), away from the main tourist strip. Things become much more authentic and much less expensive.
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| The main tourist hangout ... on a Sunday ... during siesta. |
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3. The fantastic laundromat located around Av Peru and Av General Las Heras (the one beside the red umbrellas!). After spending three weeks on a mountain I was left with a backpack full of pretty gross clothes that somehow needed to serve me through my 10-day Patagonia trip. This laundromat came highly recommended so I decided to try it out. Upon my arrival I asked the owner if she spoke English, to which she replied, "No." This was a problem since everything I needed to wash was special climbing/hiking stuff that required special handling -- and I had no idea how to communicate those instructions. But I left the clothes with her anyway and by some miracle everything turned out perfect. Amazing!
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Things I disliked about Mendoza:
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1. Being offered drugs in Plaza Independencia -- the main city park -- each time I ventured through (even in broad daylight). I've heard this is a new phenomenon, and it's unfortunate. I felt safe walking by myself most times of the day but recommend using common sense and getting in before things die down at night.
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2. The ultra-touristy downtown core. One can only handle so many shops selling overpriced North Face gear before it starts to wear on him.
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| Sunset view of downtown Mendoza from the pool deck at the ultra-touristy Sheridan hotel. |
3. The folks at Azafran -- a restaurant in Mendoza -- continually trying to kill me. As I've written about previously I'm allergic to nuts and this restaurant -- despite clearly understanding the nature and severity of my allergy -- kept slipping nuts (which are not common in Argentine food) into my meal (including the cheese and meat plate pictured above). Luckily I spotted them before eating but it was unsettling. Also, the service was terrible. Take that, Azafran!
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In the end the positives definitely outweighed the negatives and I'd recommend a visit if you're in Argentina (especially if you're a wine lover). Maybe you can figure out just what "wonders" my friend was referencing.
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